Skip to content

Gastronomic SLC

Utah's biggest and oldest food magazine – got news? ‪Call us (385) 429-0650

  • About
  • Subscribe
  • Best SLC Restaurants
  • Dining Guide
  • News
  • Features
  • Industry

Contigo Peru

This is my review of Contigo Perú, circa 2012, originally printed in the Salt Lake Tribune.  The article no longer appears online, this is my original draft review of the restaurant (may contain typos and grammar errors!

REVIEW:

 

“What the heck do you know about South American cuisine?”, “you’ve barely traveled farther South than Panguitch, let alone Peru.”  In my case, it’d be a fair question.  Luckily there exists those universal highs and lows that we all implicitly understand.  For example, is there anyone who hasn’t become enraged by that maddeningly tacky patch left behind after pulling a sticky label all too hastily? 

 

Similarly, do national borders even matter when appreciating the joys of a perfectly roasted chicken?  Fresh from the oven, heavenly wafting scents, picking you up by the nose like a cartoon character.  At Paulino’s Contigu Peru the roast chicken is formidable (available in sizes: Cuarto Pollo $7.49, Medio Pollo $11.99, Pollo Entero $22.99).  I say this having never set so much as a knife and fork in South America.  Served with thick cut home-style French fries, it’s irresistible comfort food in any number of languages.

 

Paulino’s is located in West Valley surrounded by a bevy of International dining destinations from Pakistan to Vietnam to Mexico – the focus here as you might have guessed from my preamble, is Peruvian cuisine.    

 

The relatively small strip mall frontage of Paulino’s gives way to a surprisingly capacious room, decorated in that tell tale mish mash of furnishings that screams mom and pop – in all the right ways mind you; there’s nary a painfully hip, mustachioed interior designer in sight.  

 

The dining room is a clean, comfortable and functional space, a bar and stage area occupying two of the walls.  Seat yourself and a server will be right to your table.  While the team here are utterly friendly and well meaning, expertly drilled they are not.  On one evening our waitress could offer no more than a smile and a shrug when asked about certain items from the menu, despite my Spanish-fluent companion’s best Sherlockian efforts. 

 

Undeterred and ever the adventurer, I ordered the Papa Rellena ($4.99) with no more idea as to what to expect other than some educated debate.  What came was something of a twice baked spud, mashed and reformed potato, stuffed with ground beef, vegetables and olives.  Delicious, just be careful of those olives – they come pit and all.  

 

Plenty of the menu is easily interpretable for even the most casual of international food fans.  The classic Peruvian dish Ceviche, is available on menus all over town – fish ‘cooked’ in lemon or lime.  The rendition here, Ceviche De Pescado ($12.99), is up with the very best; the fish supported by a deft balance of salt and acid, never threatening to overcook and toughen the meat.  The modest price, like much of the menu, belies a generous portion size, easy enough for a group of two or three to share.   

 

An appetizer of Yucca Frita ($5.99) makes for a good sidekick to order with the ceviche, deep fried wedges of yucca, an enjoyable textural offset; and for cultural brutes like myself, tailor made for dipping into the leche de tigre – the salty and tart marinade that’s the magic behind the ceviche.

 

Moving onto larger plates, Combinado Paulino ($18.99) makes life easier for the indecisive – a combination plate stacked with sliced yams, chunks of roast pork, a soft pork tamal, spiced and grilled anticuchos (beef heart) and papa a la huancaina – halved potatoes in a vivid yellow cheese sauce.

 

Tallarin Saltado De Carne ($10.99), a tangle of noodles with beef, onions and tomatoes was pleasant, a dish that anyone with a passing interest in chow mein will appreciate; just one of several Chifa dishes – reflecting the influence of Chinese immigration on Peruvian cuisine.  In contrast, another noodle dish –  Tallarin Verde Con Carne ($11.99) – nods to the Italian  impressions upon Peru – a pounded flat steak served alongside a mass of spaghetti noodles bathed in a herbaceous sauce of spinach and basil, topped with parmesan.

 

Seco De Carne ($11.99) is another fine dish worth your time. A thick gravy studded with carrots, peas and cilantro supports meltingly-tender beef, hinting at a long stewing process.  Served with white rice, yucca and hominy it’s a rustically-satisfying dish.  Parillada Personal ($24.99) continues the meaty-menu trend, a sizzling platter of pounded flat chicken and steak, pork, four pieces of cabanossi – slice Peruvian sausage – plus salad and corn. Served on a piping hot metal skillet, it’s easily enough to feed the family.

 

Jalea Mixta ($18.99) proved one of only a few mis steps; a hefty mountain of deep fried seafood (scallops, prawn, fish, squid, mussels) encircles a bowl of more of that wonderful ceviche.  Impressive in size and presentation, the dish faltered due to what seemed to be a one shoe fits all approach to the deep fryer; juicy pieces of tender white fish intermingled with tough morsels of unidentifiable ‘something’.

 

Tacu Tacu En Salsa De Marisco ($12.99) was eminently more impressive.  The centerpiece of the dish – breaded and tender tilapia – came coated in a creamy, light terracotta hued seafood sauce.  The finishing touch a flurry of mixed seafood with scallops, mussels, squid and prawns.  

 

One Saturday evening’s entertainment at Paulino’s, was a perfect analogy for my whole experience at this enjoyable West side eatery.   Taking to the stage, surrounded by a laser light show, the host’s banter with the gathered crowd was as mysterious to me as parts of the menu.  Yet, with bags of welcoming charm, I only wanted to stay longer and get to know the details of this mom and pop business even more. 

 

Stuart Melling also writes at www.theutahreview.com and www.gastronomicslc.com – he can be found on Twitter @gastronomicslc



Twenty of the best dishes I just ate around Salt Lake City

August 9, 2022August 9, 2022 by Stuart Melling
The Pearl - pork belly and egg rolls

As well as scouring our streets for the new and notable, you’ll also find me overstaying my welcome at a range of well established restaurants too. Seeing as my iPhone …

Read more

It’s A Wrap – January 2019

January 8, 2020February 2, 2019 by Stuart Melling
The Rose Establishment - avocado toast (saltplatecity)

We took December off from the wrap up, as general food news was a little thin on the ground over the holiday period. As such this wrap up covers both …

Read more

50+ wines by the glass

BTG Wine Bar offer Utah's biggest and best wine bar experience. BTG pours more than fifty hand curated selections, all available by the glass, as well as multiple smart wine flights.


btgwinebar.com

Brilliant burgers

Looking for amazing burgers in Salt Lake? Head to BGR for creative, bold burgers/. The Sugar House burger experts grill everything to your preferred temperature. Don't miss the line up of local craft brews too.


bgrtheburgerjoint.com

Stacked sandwiches

On the hunt for SLC’s best sandwich? Look no further than our sponsor Feldman’s Deli and their loaded half pound deli classics.


feldmansdeli.com

Romantic mountain dining

Looking for the most romantic spot in Utah? Check out our sponsor Log Haven nestled in Millcreek canyon.


log-haven.com

Authentic Japanese

It’s hard to beat authenticity and consistency. Our sponsor Kyoto has been offering traditional sushi, sashimi and entrees for more than 30 years.


kyotoslc.com

Impressive Italian

The downtown based Caffe Molise offers some of the very best Italian food in all of SLC. Check out this fine sponsor next time you’re downtown.


caffemolise.com

A relaxing oasis

Look no further than our sponsor Oasis Cafe for a tranquil destination in the heart of Salt Lake. Open seven days a week.


oasiscafeslc.com

Chic downtown dining

Look no further than our sponsor Whiskey Street for brilliant downtown dining like this ahi poke with cucumbers, avocado, chuka ika salad, wasabi lime aioli, and sesame wonton chips.


whiskeystreet.com

Chic downtown dining

Head to our sponsor White Horse for brilliant downtown dining in a classy environment.


whitehorseslc.com

Upscale pub grub

Check out our sponsor Bourbon House fabulous pub grub with a refined and elevated twist.


bourbonhouseslc.com

Chef inspired cuisine

Visit our sponsor SLC Eatery - for unique chef driven cuisine and a modern take on dim sum.


slceatery.com

Fabulous lunch spot

Check out our sponsor Taqueria 27 for a great destination lunch spot seven days a week.


taqueria27.com

Tremendous Italian dining

Looking for a stellar meal in downtown SLC? Check out Stoneground Italian Kitchen for one of the best dinner destinations in the city.


stonegrounditalian.com

Terrific Thai cuisine

Discover a diverse menu of Thai dishes at our sponsors Kao Thai. The menu offers both authentically crafted classics, as well as a range of modern takes on Thai.


kaothai-slc.com

A unique night out

Enjoy fun food and world class mixology from our sponsors Flanker. Go for the food and drink but stay for the hands on fun with their sports simulators, karaoke rooms and more.


flankerslc.com

Avenues must eats

One of the best neighborhood hangouts can be found at Avenues Proper. Go for the seasonal chef-driven menu, and stay for the award winning lineup of craft brews.


avenuesproper.com

Avenues must eats

One of the best neighborhood hangouts can be found at Stratford Proper. Go for the seasonal chef-driven menu, and stay for the award winning lineup of craft brews.


stratfordproper.com

Time for a burger?

Head on down to Proper Burger for some of the best burgers in the business. Options start from under five bucks and include a range of DIY add ons.


Proper Burger

Utah's only Utah only bar

For Utah beer that is! Check out our sponsors Craft By Proper , Utah's only bar that features 100% Utah only beer.


craftbyproper.com

Healthy fast eats

Looking for a quick meal that's equally healthy? Check out the menu at Ascent Kitchen , one of our favorite places to grab a nutritious meal.


ascent.kitchen

Healthy and tasty Mediterranean

A double whammy of both unique and healthy dishes can be found at Laziz Kitchen. With two locations in the valley this modern Mediterranean spot is never more than ten minutes away and makes for a perfect lunch or dinner alike.


lazizkitchen.com

In the know locals hangout

A former auto repair shop transformed into a laid-back bar with live music & a garden patio? Welcome to Garage On Beck - your new favorite spot to kick back, enjoy a cold beer and indulge in cheeky house specialities like the deep fried funeral potatoes. If you know you know.


garageonbeck.com

Latest Utah food news

  • Wine to whiskey – what’s up next on the dining calendar

    Wine to whiskey – what’s up next on the dining calendar

    August 14, 2022
  • Twenty of the best dishes I just ate around Salt Lake City

    Twenty of the best dishes I just ate around Salt Lake City

    August 9, 2022
  • Utah peach season is here – don’t miss out

    Utah peach season is here – don’t miss out

    August 7, 2022
  • Utah bar gets wallet friendly menu makeover

    Utah bar gets wallet friendly menu makeover

    August 1, 2022
  • No new bars granted license – plus mini bottles return

    No new bars granted license – plus mini bottles return

    July 27, 2022

50+ wines by the glass

BTG Wine Bar offer Utah's biggest and best wine bar experience. BTG pours more than fifty hand curated selections, all available by the glass, as well as multiple smart wine flights.


btgwinebar.com

Brilliant burgers

Looking for amazing burgers in Salt Lake? Head to BGR for creative, bold burgers/. The Sugar House burger experts grill everything to your preferred temperature. Don't miss the line up of local craft brews too.


bgrtheburgerjoint.com

Stacked sandwiches

On the hunt for SLC’s best sandwich? Look no further than our sponsor Feldman’s Deli and their loaded half pound deli classics.


feldmansdeli.com

Romantic mountain dining

Looking for the most romantic spot in Utah? Check out our sponsor Log Haven nestled in Millcreek canyon.


log-haven.com

Authentic Japanese

It’s hard to beat authenticity and consistency. Our sponsor Kyoto has been offering traditional sushi, sashimi and entrees for more than 30 years.


kyotoslc.com

Impressive Italian

The downtown based Caffe Molise offers some of the very best Italian food in all of SLC. Check out this fine sponsor next time you’re downtown.


caffemolise.com

A relaxing oasis

Look no further than our sponsor Oasis Cafe for a tranquil destination in the heart of Salt Lake. Open seven days a week.


oasiscafeslc.com

Chic downtown dining

Look no further than our sponsor Whiskey Street for brilliant downtown dining like this ahi poke with cucumbers, avocado, chuka ika salad, wasabi lime aioli, and sesame wonton chips.


whiskeystreet.com

Chic downtown dining

Head to our sponsor White Horse for brilliant downtown dining in a classy environment.


whitehorseslc.com

Upscale pub grub

Check out our sponsor Bourbon House fabulous pub grub with a refined and elevated twist.


bourbonhouseslc.com

Chef inspired cuisine

Visit our sponsor SLC Eatery - for unique chef driven cuisine and a modern take on dim sum.


slceatery.com

Fabulous lunch spot

Check out our sponsor Taqueria 27 for a great destination lunch spot seven days a week.


taqueria27.com

Tremendous Italian dining

Looking for a stellar meal in downtown SLC? Check out Stoneground Italian Kitchen for one of the best dinner destinations in the city.


stonegrounditalian.com

Terrific Thai cuisine

Discover a diverse menu of Thai dishes at our sponsors Kao Thai. The menu offers both authentically crafted classics, as well as a range of modern takes on Thai.


kaothai-slc.com

A unique night out

Enjoy fun food and world class mixology from our sponsors Flanker. Go for the food and drink but stay for the hands on fun with their sports simulators, karaoke rooms and more.


flankerslc.com

Avenues must eats

One of the best neighborhood hangouts can be found at Avenues Proper. Go for the seasonal chef-driven menu, and stay for the award winning lineup of craft brews.


avenuesproper.com

Avenues must eats

One of the best neighborhood hangouts can be found at Stratford Proper. Go for the seasonal chef-driven menu, and stay for the award winning lineup of craft brews.


stratfordproper.com

Time for a burger?

Head on down to Proper Burger for some of the best burgers in the business. Options start from under five bucks and include a range of DIY add ons.


Proper Burger

Utah's only Utah only bar

For Utah beer that is! Check out our sponsors Craft By Proper , Utah's only bar that features 100% Utah only beer.


craftbyproper.com

Healthy fast eats

Looking for a quick meal that's equally healthy? Check out the menu at Ascent Kitchen , one of our favorite places to grab a nutritious meal.


ascent.kitchen

Healthy and tasty Mediterranean

A double whammy of both unique and healthy dishes can be found at Laziz Kitchen. With two locations in the valley this modern Mediterranean spot is never more than ten minutes away and makes for a perfect lunch or dinner alike.


lazizkitchen.com

In the know locals hangout

A former auto repair shop transformed into a laid-back bar with live music & a garden patio? Welcome to Garage On Beck - your new favorite spot to kick back, enjoy a cold beer and indulge in cheeky house specialities like the deep fried funeral potatoes. If you know you know.


garageonbeck.com

Food features

  • Utah peach season is here – don’t miss out

    Utah peach season is here – don’t miss out

    August 7, 2022
  • Would you look at that – we scooped up four more awards

    Would you look at that – we scooped up four more awards

    June 18, 2022
  • Oh hey look, we just picked up some awards

    Oh hey look, we just picked up some awards

    April 10, 2022
  • Menus shrink as restaurants face a barrage of challenges

    Menus shrink as restaurants face a barrage of challenges

    March 10, 2022
  • Utah chef’s favorite dishes – I’ll have what they’re having

    Utah chef’s favorite dishes – I’ll have what they’re having

    February 9, 2022

50+ wines by the glass

BTG Wine Bar offer Utah's biggest and best wine bar experience. BTG pours more than fifty hand curated selections, all available by the glass, as well as multiple smart wine flights.


btgwinebar.com

Brilliant burgers

Looking for amazing burgers in Salt Lake? Head to BGR for creative, bold burgers/. The Sugar House burger experts grill everything to your preferred temperature. Don't miss the line up of local craft brews too.


bgrtheburgerjoint.com

Stacked sandwiches

On the hunt for SLC’s best sandwich? Look no further than our sponsor Feldman’s Deli and their loaded half pound deli classics.


feldmansdeli.com

Romantic mountain dining

Looking for the most romantic spot in Utah? Check out our sponsor Log Haven nestled in Millcreek canyon.


log-haven.com

Authentic Japanese

It’s hard to beat authenticity and consistency. Our sponsor Kyoto has been offering traditional sushi, sashimi and entrees for more than 30 years.


kyotoslc.com

Impressive Italian

The downtown based Caffe Molise offers some of the very best Italian food in all of SLC. Check out this fine sponsor next time you’re downtown.


caffemolise.com

A relaxing oasis

Look no further than our sponsor Oasis Cafe for a tranquil destination in the heart of Salt Lake. Open seven days a week.


oasiscafeslc.com

Chic downtown dining

Look no further than our sponsor Whiskey Street for brilliant downtown dining like this ahi poke with cucumbers, avocado, chuka ika salad, wasabi lime aioli, and sesame wonton chips.


whiskeystreet.com

Chic downtown dining

Head to our sponsor White Horse for brilliant downtown dining in a classy environment.


whitehorseslc.com

Upscale pub grub

Check out our sponsor Bourbon House fabulous pub grub with a refined and elevated twist.


bourbonhouseslc.com

Chef inspired cuisine

Visit our sponsor SLC Eatery - for unique chef driven cuisine and a modern take on dim sum.


slceatery.com

Fabulous lunch spot

Check out our sponsor Taqueria 27 for a great destination lunch spot seven days a week.


taqueria27.com

Tremendous Italian dining

Looking for a stellar meal in downtown SLC? Check out Stoneground Italian Kitchen for one of the best dinner destinations in the city.


stonegrounditalian.com

Terrific Thai cuisine

Discover a diverse menu of Thai dishes at our sponsors Kao Thai. The menu offers both authentically crafted classics, as well as a range of modern takes on Thai.


kaothai-slc.com

A unique night out

Enjoy fun food and world class mixology from our sponsors Flanker. Go for the food and drink but stay for the hands on fun with their sports simulators, karaoke rooms and more.


flankerslc.com

Avenues must eats

One of the best neighborhood hangouts can be found at Avenues Proper. Go for the seasonal chef-driven menu, and stay for the award winning lineup of craft brews.


avenuesproper.com

Avenues must eats

One of the best neighborhood hangouts can be found at Stratford Proper. Go for the seasonal chef-driven menu, and stay for the award winning lineup of craft brews.


stratfordproper.com

Time for a burger?

Head on down to Proper Burger for some of the best burgers in the business. Options start from under five bucks and include a range of DIY add ons.


Proper Burger

Utah's only Utah only bar

For Utah beer that is! Check out our sponsors Craft By Proper , Utah's only bar that features 100% Utah only beer.


craftbyproper.com

Healthy fast eats

Looking for a quick meal that's equally healthy? Check out the menu at Ascent Kitchen , one of our favorite places to grab a nutritious meal.


ascent.kitchen

Healthy and tasty Mediterranean

A double whammy of both unique and healthy dishes can be found at Laziz Kitchen. With two locations in the valley this modern Mediterranean spot is never more than ten minutes away and makes for a perfect lunch or dinner alike.


lazizkitchen.com

In the know locals hangout

A former auto repair shop transformed into a laid-back bar with live music & a garden patio? Welcome to Garage On Beck - your new favorite spot to kick back, enjoy a cold beer and indulge in cheeky house specialities like the deep fried funeral potatoes. If you know you know.


garageonbeck.com

Eat Here Now

  • Utah bar gets wallet friendly menu makeover

    Utah bar gets wallet friendly menu makeover

    August 1, 2022
  • Central 9th Market – home to some of the best sandwiches in town

    Central 9th Market – home to some of the best sandwiches in town

    July 24, 2022
  • This new Utah cafe offers a very special English delicacy

    This new Utah cafe offers a very special English delicacy

    July 10, 2022
  • Franklin Ave – the unmissable Salt Lake restaurant currently under the radar

    Franklin Ave – the unmissable Salt Lake restaurant currently under the radar

    July 6, 2022
  • Arthur – one of Utah’s best meals will vanish in a couple weeks

    Arthur – one of Utah’s best meals will vanish in a couple weeks

    June 27, 2022

Quick links

  • Utah food and drink news
  • Must read stores
  • General features
  • Food events
  • New restaurants
  • DABS / alcohol news
  • Products
  • Recipes

Follow us here

  • Subscribe to our newsletter - weekly
  • Subscribe to our newsletter - daily updates
  • RSS feed
  • Facebook
  • Instagram
  • Twitter
  • Email us

Work in the industry?

  • Utah Food industry resources
  • Work with us - grow your business

Contact us

  • contactus@gastronomicslc.com
  • ‪(385) 429-0650
  • PO BOX 522065, SLC, UT, 84106
© A Matter Of Taste LLC 2022