Let’s start by noting that I don’t throw around hyperbole hastily. When I say Deadpan Sandwich is one of the best in the city – I mean it from the bottom of a broadly experienced belly. Ever since my first visit to the Deadpan’s original local in the Woodbine food hall (545 West 700 S) I’ve been a devotee to this uniquely creative sandwich shop.
When news broke that the creative duo behind Deadpan (Taylor Giullian and Emily Giullian) were to expand their footprint – I was tickled pink. Mind you, it could have been a completely different story. If it weren’t for a cabal of equally passionate Salt Lakers I mightn’t be writing this urge to check out their latest menu efforts (more on that in a minute).
In the Winter of 2023, the restaurant announced that its closure was likely imminent. What followed next was an outpouring of love, support, and crucially, capital. “We were blown away, truly humbled”, says Emily. “Once news broke that our last few days were ahead of us the lines formed almost immediately. Every day.” The days ahead would see complete sell-out, after sell-out, fans flocking to grab one last bite.
Emily explained the moment was transformative, “That support helped us completely turn around the business. We haven’t looked back since.” This brings us neatly to the present day and the opening of a second location for Deadpan – located on the outer edges of a rapidly redeveloping Sugar House – housed on the ground floor of the Izzy Apartment building (556 E 2100 S).
Heading up the kitchen, Taylor’s approach to the concise menu is a thoughtful and pragmatic one. For example, the restaurant’s tabula rasa – aka bread – is provided by local bakery Stoneground. Rather than falling down the rabbit hole of baking, Taylor deploys his time and talent to where he can add material value. Old-world techniques are employed to bring depth and dimension to the otherwise ordinary; think fermentation, curing, pickling, and smoking.
House-made giardiniera brightens a heartily stuffed Italian beef sandwich, in-house fermented kimchee enlivens the seasonal Kimcheese, while pickled green tomatoes bring an unexpected zip to the B.L.O.T. – a zesty twist on the familiar B.L.T. It’s worth noting that Taylor’s resume includes time spent at Beltex Meats, the boutique-butcher also renowned for their mastery of time-honored technique.
Local sourcing is relied on as much as possible, veggies arrive from local farms such as Frogbench Farms for example. Again, the sourcing and in-house flair are utilized with a steady hand – mayo comes from a tub of Duke’s mayo; if you know, you really know – its presence alone should tell you these folks know their way around a loaf.
As I touched on earlier, the Deadpan menu is a compact one, smartly so. You won’t find the same old ingredients repurposed into a dizzying assemblage, instead, you’ll select from a half dozen options. Some are staples such as the German-informed Oh Schnitzel (pork schnitzel, ranch-kraut, dill, parsley, Duke’s), some wax and wane, while the best-selling Turkey Club are often reimagined seasonally.
Unique to the Sugar House opening, the menu has been moderately expanded. Only available at this location – a trio of breakfast sandwiches, all available during business hours (Monday through Saturday, 10.00 a.m. – 3.00 p.m.). The star of the newcomers is a merguez, egg, and cheese construction. A homemade blend of lamb and beef sausage is delivered with just the right amount of tingling warmth. And yes, that perfectly cooked fried egg is gonna run right out of the airy bun and all down your wrist. Would you want it any other way?
A more traditional bacon, egg, and cheese option is available, with vegans afforded more than just the usual Impossible patty slapped in the microwave. Again, the sandwich showcases Taylor’s thoughtfulness – the composition is built on a breakfast patty of mushrooms and rice, replete with those early morning herbs.
The new Sugar House format is largely a grab-and-go one, though the space does offer some modest interior seating as well as several patio seats that face 2100 South. What’s most notable about the setup, is the removal of tipping entirely. “Like everyone else, we’re exhausted by the endless expansion of tipping, sometimes in the oddest of service settings”, explains Emily. “As we’re a small, mainly to-go option for the neighborhood, and not providing wait staff, it seemed inappropriate”. The prices you see on the menu board, are the prices you pay (after tax of course). There’s no flipping around of the POS system and suggesting a 30% tip for merely handing an item over a counter.
For those concerned, for the time being, the restaurant remains happily Westward of the nightmare of the 2100 South construction project. If you do swing by for a bite, note that there’s modest parking to the East, street side. The restaurant is also available on your favorite delivery app as well, you know, for those days when a hot chopped cheese, pajamas, and a day on the sofa are the way forward.
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Hi, I’m Stuart, nice to meet you! I’m the founder, writer and wrangler at Gastronomic SLC. I’m a multiple-award winning journalist and have written in myopic detail about the Salt Lake City dining scene for the better part of seventeen years.
I’ve worked extensively with multiple local publications from Visit Salt Lake to Salt Lake Magazine, not least helped to consult on national TV. Pause those credits, yep, that’s me! I’m also a former restaurant critic of more than five years, working for the Salt Lake Tribune. I’m largely fueled by a critical obsession with rice, alliteration and the use of big words I don’t understand. What they’re saying about me: “Not inaccurate”, “I thought he was older”, “I don’t share his feelings”.
Want to know more? This is why I am the way I am.
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