Shumai, pelmeni, mandu, gyoza… I’ve never met a dumpling I didn’t love. At the relatively new Dumplings Company in Millcreek, the particular focus is South Asian momo. I’m lured in by an uncommon menu spot – bison; which strikes me as a Wasatch-apropos alternative to say, water buffalo, that night feature on Himalayan menus.
A ten-piece order of the bison dumpling here is priced at $14.95 and a plateful will happily serve as a full lunch or dinner – in part due to the momo’s dense, filling pastry. It’s pinched into a mesmerizing spiral, and inside, a bison meatball. In truth the robust garlic and ginger embellishments dominate proceedings, leaving the bison muted in the background. That’s no bad thing mind you, each momo offers one or two thoroughly enjoyable bites, especially when dunked in the accompanying sauce; a thick, clay-hued thing, that clings to the ridges and crags of the momo skin.
There’s an almost nutty note, almonds are my best guess as I plonk and muse my way through the near dozen. And then, they’re gone, there’s no more sauce to ponder. As I say, never met a dumpling I didn’t love.
A final thought, as most dumplings tend to be, they’re ephemeral things. The dense shell hardens as it cools, making the best moment to enjoy the dish – right away. Which is something you can do seven days a week at DC, and past midnight on certain days of the week too.
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Hi, I’m Stuart, nice to meet you! I’m the founder, writer and wrangler at Gastronomic SLC. I’m a multiple-award winning journalist and have written in myopic detail about the Salt Lake City dining scene for the better part of seventeen years.
I’ve worked extensively with multiple local publications from Visit Salt Lake to Salt Lake Magazine, not least helped to consult on national TV. Pause those credits, yep, that’s me! I’m also a former restaurant critic of more than five years, working for the Salt Lake Tribune. I’m largely fueled by a critical obsession with rice, alliteration and the use of big words I don’t understand. What they’re saying about me: “Not inaccurate”, “I thought he was older”, “I don’t share his feelings”.
Want to know more? This is why I am the way I am.
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